Best Porcelain Repair Kits of 2026

A bottle of ceramic glue usually dies at the nozzle. The cap welds itself shut between repairs, the tip skins over, and by the second chip you're poking at it with a pin. The LOOCTOT bottle is built around that annoyance: an anti-clogging cap and a set of fine applicator tips that put the glue exactly on the break instead of around it. That sounds like a small detail until you're holding two halves of a saucer in one hand.

It earns the top spot because it handles the repair most people actually have — a clean break or a hairline crack where the two surfaces still mate. The tensile number on the label matters far less than the 10-to-30-second set: fast enough to hold a chip in place with fingertip pressure, slow enough to nudge the pieces into alignment before it grabs. It cures transparent, which counts for more than any strength figure when the repair is on a mug handle or a figurine.

Where it earns its keep is control. The glue is liquid enough to wick into a tight crack without flooding a small repair, and the tips let you lay a bead along one edge rather than across the whole break. The technique we settled on: a thin film on one side, press, hold, and wipe the squeeze-out before it sets.

What it won't do is rebuild. If the chip took material with it, there's nothing here to fill the void, and a putty like Milliput is the right tool. The bottle is 1.05 ounces, which is plenty for a handful of small repairs and tight if you're working through a set — buy two if that's the job.

A chip is not a break, and it needs a different product. When a corner of a sink or the rim of a teapot has lost material, there are no two surfaces to pull together — you need something you can press into the gap, shape while it's soft, and sand flush once it hardens. Milliput Superfine White does that better than anything else here, which is why a pack of it lives in our workshop drawer despite costing more than every glue on this list.

The pack gives you two 4 oz bars of two-part epoxy putty plus two pairs of gloves. Knead equal parts until the color is uniform, press it into the chip, and you have generous working time to shape it before it goes rock hard in three to four hours. Once cured it sands, takes paint and stands up to water and heat, which is why it suits a sink edge or a shower tray as readily as a display piece.

Mixing is the whole technique: work the two parts until the color is even, press the putty in slightly proud of the surface, and leave it a little high so you have something to sand back. The two bars plus gloves make this the most complete kit here for filling work, and the white takes paint well enough to blend into a glazed finish.

A clear glue closes a crack; it can't hide one. On a white tub or a porcelain sink, a chip leaves a shadow that no transparent adhesive will cover, and the repair has to match the fixture as well as fill it. That's the whole case for this kit: a 3.7 oz two-part epoxy gel sold with colorants you blend into the mix before it sets.

Matching is the part that decides whether the repair reads or disappears. Mix a small amount of the two parts, add tint a little at a time — it goes much further than you expect — and test the shade on paper or on the underside of the fixture before you commit it to the chip. Press it in, smooth the edges, and leave it alone until it cures.

We like it for sanitaryware: tubs, shower trays, sink rims and tile, on fiberglass, acrylic, enamel, porcelain and gel coat. A tub of tintable filler makes more sense there than a bottle of glue, because you're filling a shallow crater and matching it rather than closing a joint.

One limit worth knowing: it isn't for hairline cracks, where there's nothing for the gel to grip. Thin glue handles those. For a chip with depth, the resealable containers mean leftovers stay workable, which is more than you can say for a tube that sets in the nozzle.

Volume is the quiet difference here. At 1.76 fluid ounces this bottle holds roughly one and a half times what the 30 ml bottles on this list do, and that changes how you use it: you stop rationing drops. For a repair that's really a dozen small ones — a shattered figurine, a stack of chipped saucers, a mosaic project — that's the difference between finishing the job and running out.

The 15-second set is quicker than the LOOCTOT and the SWIFFAR, and we count that as both the appeal and the catch. On a clean two-piece break you're done almost immediately. On anything with three or more pieces you need to dry-fit first, because there is very little time to slide a piece into position; tape, a stand or a second pair of hands helps more here than with the slower bottles.

It cures clear and holds through washing, and the three dispensing tubes get into narrow breaks. On a glazed cup, though, the cured line can read white rather than invisible, so it's better suited to a joint you'll see edge-on or a piece that will be painted or hidden.

This is the least expensive bottle here, and it behaves like a thin glue should: low-to-medium viscosity, a 30-second set, and a bead you can put exactly where you want it. On a hairline crack running across a plate or a fine split at a cup rim, thin is the advantage — the glue wicks into the crack and the joint closes almost invisibly. We rate it the best value of the clear glues here for exactly that reason.

The formula is an ethyl cyanoacrylate, so it's the same chemistry as most of the glues on this list; what your money buys is the bottle, the three droppers and a cure that stays colorless. It's waterproof and heat resistant once set, and it stays clear, which is what you want on anything white or translucent.

Where it's less forgiving is the thinness. A runny glue travels on a vertical face and soaks into unglazed clay or porous bisque, so keep the piece flat while it sets and use less than you think. On a vertical repair, a gel or a putty does a better job of staying where it's put.

The cap and the droppers are the practical part: the glue stays in the bottle between repairs, and the tips reach a split rim without flooding it. For a first repair, that makes it a low-risk way to find out whether you need anything more.

One bottle for everything is the pitch here, and it mostly holds. This is a 30 ml medium-viscosity cyanoacrylate that bonds ceramic to glass, wood, plastic and metal, which is broader material coverage than the dedicated ceramic glues offer. If your repair list includes a chair leg and a picture frame as well as a plate, that breadth is worth something.

The working time is generous for a cyanoacrylate — 30 to 60 seconds before it grabs, with a full cure in 24 hours. Treat the listed 4,347 psi tensile figure lightly: a brittle joint on glazed porcelain fails at the glaze interface long before it approaches a number like that, so how well the two surfaces mate matters more than the label.

We place it behind the top pick because of the finish. The cured seam can dry slightly hazy instead of water-clear, which is fine on a dark or painted surface and disappointing on a white plate you'll look at every day. Set against that, the anti-clog cap works, the bottle is larger than most, and it costs about the same as the rest of the glues here.

Vertical repairs are where thin glue embarrasses itself. A crack down the side of a vase, the inside shoulder of a mug, a chip on a tiled wall: the adhesive runs, pools at the bottom and leaves the top of the joint starved. The pitch here is a thick, high-viscosity ceramic glue meant to sit where it's placed and fill chipped edges, small gaps and uneven breaks, and we can see why the idea appeals.

The kit is a 30 g bottle with three precision dropper tips, a clear cure and a 24-hour full cure after the initial grab. It's listed for mugs, bowls, vases, planters, tile and bathroom fixtures, so it's aimed at the same shelf-and-sanitaryware repairs as the rest of this list.

The catch is that the thickness isn't consistent. It can come out much closer to water than a gel, and when it does, the whole advantage runs down the side of the piece. Test a drop on scrap before you commit it to a vertical repair and keep the work flat for the first few minutes; on a horizontal chip, where running doesn't matter, it's a perfectly serviceable 30 g bottle.

Sandpaper is the tell. Almost every product here is a liquid you squeeze and hope; the Keeney kit is the one that assumes you'll sand afterward, and it ships with a rough sheet, a smooth sheet and a polishing compound to finish the job. That's the difference between a repair that sits level with the surrounding surface and a bump you can feel with a fingertip.

Inside is a two-part white putty and hardener, formulated for nicks, gouges and scratches on porcelain, fiberglass, acrylic, gel coat, formica, granite and resin — and, less obviously, for boats and RVs, which tells you something about how it's meant to hold up.

The method is simple and mostly sanding: mix, spread thin, let it set, then work down through the papers and polish. Spread it thinner than feels right, because a thick blob means a long session with the rough sheet.

We keep it on the list for a white fixture with a small chip or gouge where you want a flush, finished repair rather than a fast one. It's a poor fit for a crack that flexes, though, because a rigid putty has nothing to move with — that's a job for a flexible filler or a replacement.